Monday, January 29, 2007

Ho Chi Minh

I went to one of the big markets on Saturday and bargained my way into buying a dry-fit shirt. I used it that evening to play some ultimate - and as Christina can attest, dry fit is amazing! And it feels even better at a discount price. I threw around with Tuyet, who did an excellent job at catching and improved her forehand. We then played a game of hot box as we waited for our field to free up. We did 6 on 6 hot box which was probably the largest I've ever played. It was a lot of fun and shocking when Tuyet and I collided as we each went for the disc. It all happened in a flash but I basically ended up on the ground and felt like Tuyet somersaulted over me. At another point I ended up marking Aaron (sp?) who is quite tall. As much as I can play smart and cut or keep up defensively, when a 6 ft tall guy stands in the box with his hands up to receive there isn't much I can do about it. It's like a midget guarding Yao Ming. After a while we got onto the field and played 9 on 9 ultimate. This was a lot of fun, but a reminder to how out of shape I am as I tried to run a full field length. Tiring. The Saigon Ultimate team has come a long way since I saw them last December - there were a lot of friendly folks and I'm hoping I can meet up with them for tomorrow's practice.

Tino and Anne, at Le PubAfterwards, Tuyet and I had dinner and then met a bunch of ex-pats at Le Pub. I enjoyed some mango juice and pina coladas before everyone decided to go (gasp) dancing! Not my favorite activity, but I went along anyways and ended up having a good time. It's not the same without Fred, my favorite dance partner. He has a habit of letting loose and dancing without being self conscious that it rubs off on me. Plus combined with good music. We were on a floor devoted to hip hop but only about half the songs sounded good. Later another Wellesley alum showed up. We took a picture of us 3 sitting together and are wondering if it will make it into the alum magazine (imagine a non-wedding photo!).

We stayed up quite late doing travel research, which is why we ended up incredibly tired on Sunday for our day tour to the Cu Chi tunnels and the Cao Dai temple. We slept every leg of the bus ride. Our guide displayed his first signs of oddity as he introduced himself and highlighted the importance of peeing at the available stops. He told a 5 minute story about a previous customer who had to make multiple emergency stops, delaying the trip home, and having to fight off local children who were in awe of seeing a foreigner and not letting her pee. Luckily he returned to normalcy and told us some history about the Cao Dai religion. Before seeing the colorful temple laiden with left eyes and animal symbols, we stopped at a handicapped handicraft center, where the process of mother of pearl lacquerware and egg shell designs was explained and displayed in process. There was table after table of workers each doing their part in creating the art pieces. At the end there was a shop with additional items for sale. I noted the price of one carved wooden box at 176000 dong, which I had seen the previous day for 32000 dong at a high priced market. One would hope the extra money would go directly to the handicapped (victims of the war) but being a jaded tourist, I could only think it went mostly to the business owner. We left empty handed.

Lunch was highly disappointing. I complained enough to Tuyet that I won't repeat it here - suffice it to say you should pack your own lunch if you take a bus tour, considering how delicious most vietnamese food is. The highlight was seeing a local standing just outside the restaurant wearing a bright red sweatshirt with some english on it. You often wonder whether people know what their clothing says.

Afterwards we got to the Cu Chi tunnels, where communist fighters and townspeople had hid during war time. Before entering the wooded area we watched a video about the history - which felt awkward as the narrator continuously blasted Americans fas heartless killers. (This article has some of the more memorable quotes.) I first thought it ridiculous that the tunnels had been doubled in size for tourism's sake. After making my way through, I thought less so, as it was quite a struggle as it was (and even more so for the larger in our company) and gave an idea of just how amazing it all must have been at just half the size. There were displays on different traps and weaponry, as well as a sample kitchen and dining area (where they fed us tapioca with a peanut dipping sauce). There was one entrance into the tunnels left at original size. When we got there, there was a large man stuck in it who needed help out. Tuyet and I fit in easily though. We also fired a rifle - my first time shooting a gun. It was incredibly loud, and Tuyet hurt her shoulder from the recoil. I shot 2 bullets at once mistakenly (supposedly 3, but I think someone else must have done the same).

On the bus ride back, our tour guide gave us a historical count of Vietnam's time in war since the 1400's, including his own time fighting with the Americans, and then later going through re-education camp once the Communists had won. He had a good half hour's worth of information. Unfortunately he stepped back into strangeness when he shared that Vietnamese also watch "movies his boss wouldn't let him describe to us" and then proceeded to pant heavily into the microphone.

Tuyet and I were happy to get off the bus and to a Vietnamese BBQ restaurant (the best in town). We enjoyed a salad on shrimp chips, some beef with cheese, and then I cringed as they brought a plate of live skewered shrimp - the legs were still moving. I am 3 steps closer to becoming vegetarian. I watched them cook alive in front of me and probably overcooked a few because it always looked like they were still twitching. I tried 2 but made Tuyet eat the rest. Besides fish, I prefer my meat to look unrecognizable and not alive or skinned in front of me. Now that I like tofu and have learned some indian cooking, I think I will start leaning heavily towards vegetarianism whenever I get back to normal life (while traveling I like to open myself to all foods).

Today I slept in later than Tuyet (previously I had been waking up with the sun before 6 am) and got breakfast with her in the market around the corner. We also grabbed another dish I hadn't tried yet, and then she went to work (RMIT) for the last time (having quit and just needing to submit grades and clean out her desk). While she was there, I spent my time cleaning up and then walking through town (from district 3 to district 1) and then researching more for our future travel.

Once Tuyet met up with me, we grabbed lunch - I got some heavenly tasting fresh spring rolls and a surprisingly delicious mango salad (I was expecting ripe but it came green) and tried one of Tuyet's lotus flower appetizers. She enjoyed her comfort food on her own, eggs with rice.

We continued our travel planning and bought our ticket to Da Nang. We leave tomorrow night, so I will probably be out of contact until getting to Bangkok (Fri, Feb 9). I've decided to play in a hat tournament and am looking forward to seeing Angie and Tucker.

Saturday, January 27, 2007

Need Thailand/Cambodia advice

Hey all - need your help! Tuyet and I are planning the rest of our travels through Cambodia (Angkor for sure, debating the capital) and Thailand. We're researching ways to get from Hanoi to BKK to Cambodia. Looks like Bangkok Air has a monopoly on the BKK-REP route. We're taking any and all suggestions for travel options - air, ferry, bus, train, as well as travel activities and advice on places to stay - the cheaper the better! We can also go to Cambodia first and then Thailand.

Our ideas for activities in Thailand are trekking, shopping, rock climbing, sea kayaking, eating & massages. No underwater activities since Tuyet is recovering from ear surgery. Possible locations are Chiang Dao (trek), Phuket area (Phang Nga bay=kayak, Railay=rock climb), ko samui. Bangkok is already a definite. I've already been to Chiang Mai so would like to try some place different this time.

Comment away or email me! Places to see/avoid, agencies to use, hostels to stay in, etc. Thank you!

Note: websites for research. I've been using travelindependent.info and wikitravel.org and a thailand travel guide. Any other good ones?

Back to black

When Tuyet's motorbike taxi guy picked us up yesterday, we recognized each other and smiled and nodded (he speaks no english, I speak no vietnamese). But apparently his first comment to Tuyet was "She's black!" On our Great Barrier Reef trip, Christina and I both tanned a lot (unwantingly), so I am about 3 shades darker than I have been the whole rest of the trip. The funny thing is that in South India, kids would point at me on the street and say in Tamil "white skin, white skin!" It was such an odd feeling being a whitey when I've usually been the darkest one around. In Malaysia and Singapore I blended in, as well as in Australia. Now I'm back to being a darkie as people here are more particular about being pale.

Tuyet and I had lunch at RMIT - some rice with pork-bamboo and bean sprouts - and a most delicious banana cake. We came home and napped and missed an evening run - Tuyet started running a few weeks ago and I was going to join her. I didn't realize I was tired until I laid down. So instead we went out for a big dinner with some friends at a really tasty Vietnamese place. We ordered loads of appetizers - mostly rice noodly things with yummy toppings - either as flat pancakes or spring rolls, and some dumplings. For the meal I had a delicious noodle dish. I can't remember the names of any of the dishes - maybe Tuyet can fill in details. I met some of her ultimate friends (she doesn't play but hangs out with them), Tino and Anne, who are trying to convince me to join them in Bali in April for a tournament. I'm considering. I also met Kevin and his gf Minh, and there happened to be another guy named Minh who just moved here a week ago.

Afterwards we went to a cafe, where they had live music playing. I enjoyed a banana-coconut-peanut smoothie, and Tuyet had a coconut ice cream (vanilla ice cream served in a coconut shell). The music was really nice and the atmosphere was relaxing - it seemed the type of place I would enjoy frequenting near retirement.

Today Tuyet is off to her consulting job and we have plans to practice with the Saigon Ultimate team - or at least I have plans to practice and Tuyet has plans to be nearby. Apparently, last year when I visited was her first and last time playing. I'll see if I can convince her to give it a go again.

Friday, January 26, 2007

Instant Pictures...not really


Tuyet and I grabbed breakfast this morning - just around the block. A yummy bowl of noodles with meat (fishballs, beef) and veggies (banana, greens, sprouts) and an iced soy drink. This was just one of many street shops available. Further down the road there were people selling fruit and veggies and meats. We went into a compact market area where we got 2 kilos of mangosteens (the seller spoke vietnamese the whole time
and seemed to want to give us his whole stash, which looked to be 3 kilos - I made a comment, and Tuyet seemed to work out that we wanted a little less than everything) and a few mangos. We passed on the asian pears until next time.

Across from Tuyet's place (different from where I visited her last year - her roomate, Patricia, just moved to Thailand to work in a refugee camp near the border to Myanmar), there is a temple. It has a nice garden area around it. She's got a really large room inside a house shared with 4 other people. And her guest bed is better than any bed I slept in in Australia! Sweet comfort.

I'm at RMIT now where I have access to Windows but can't download anything on to the computer from the net, nor can I log into read gmail. Sad. Oh, and apparently I can't upload the pictures from my camera. Grrr. Well, there are 2 lovely pictures to go along with the above paragraphs that I'll have to post later.

We each took a motorbike taxi (20,000 dong) to school. The ride was pleasant and I noticed a few people balancing some really large items - I'll have to video or take pictures next time, as it's quite amazing what people can transport. In a few days, I probably won't even do a double take if I see someone balancing a grand piano on the back.

Arrived in Vietnam

I got to Vietnam safely last night. This time immigration went quite smoothly (thanks to Tuyet for getting me a visa-on-arrival) and I was out of the airport in half an hour. Tuyet and I enjoyed a yummy korean dinner and talked about the lack of solidity in our plans - both for immediate travel and post-travel. She is considering moving back to the states in addition to getting another job here (she's part time consultant and part time college professor). We're considering adding Laos to the itinerary (on top of Cambodia and Thailand) and wondering what else to do in Vietnam as it seems a bit cold up in Hanoi and Sapa.

OK, I think she needs the puter for grading. More later!

p.s. I'm re-uploading all the photos, but I don't think I like the picasa uploader on a mac, so will probably redo them all over again once I get to a windows machine.