Friday, August 31, 2007

Taipei update

I've been pretty lazy this week, but have gotten out a bit to check out a few places.

The Taipei Main Library is just east of Da'an park. There's a decent English language portion, study areas, newspapers, magazines, and wires for laptops. I got a library card (at the entrance, next to the checkout line) pretty easily. I'm getting used to people asking me to wait while they find someone who can speak English to deal with me.

Afterwards, I walked to the Linjiang St Night Market. I enjoyed a shaved ice dessert - I got almond jello, red beans, something I couldn't identify that everyone in front of me got, and tapioca balls. I chose my toppings by pointing - which is one reason I chose to get the dessert instead of a bubble tea, since it would be easier for me to order. With temperatures in the 30's, it's nice to have a cooling treat.

On Wednesday I tried to find the Eagles ultimate team, but apparently they're on break for two weeks. Luckily their practice field is near the ShiLin Night Market, so I spent the night walking around there instead. I got a Peppered Bun (Hu-jiao bing) - these are just like normal bao zi, but instead of steaming them, the buns are stuck to the wall of a small oven and baked. This gives them a crunchy texture. Inside is pork, green onions and black pepper.

Something common to night markets, and night shopping in general, is that there is usually someone standing outside the store with a microphone. Their job seems to be to talk non-stop to entice you to come in to the store. My Chinese isn't that great, but the bits I can catch are: "really cheap", "if you don't take a look, ...", "step inside", "50% off", etc. Sometimes you can hear the speaker from a few stores away and it takes a while to figure out which store is doing the advertising.

Thursday, I met old college first-year Pomeroy dorm-mates, Judy and Tina. They are both taking a break from NYC life visiting family and working for a short time. We met on YongKang St and Judy pointed out a dozen good places to eat. Tina met up with us after working at the hospital at one of her favorite Taiwanese restaurants. I already forget the name, but the address of the Da (Big) place is 65 Yongkang St, south of the main area. We went to the Xiao (Small) place which is further north around the bend. We ordered more dishes than we could finish and it was all really tasty. This place has a menu you write on to order - so if you can't read Chinese, you'd be ok just checking off boxes at random - it would still all be delicious and authentic. This place serves Taiwanese and new Taiwanese dishes.

This morning I woke up much later than expected. I think it was the combination of the Taiwanese beer and the late night addiction to Facebook that made me miss my target wake up time. Oh and lack of an alarm clock. I ended up jumping out of bed to run out and catch a cab to Shi Da for Orientation. I made it in time to get a seat in the small auditorium. There were supposedly 300 students there, out of 800 starting this quarter. Most students are from Japan and Korea. Only 17% are Americans and the majority are Asian (do I count as American or Asian? hmmm). I found out I'm in the 2 pm class (my fourth choice time slot) and picked up my book at the bookstore. I took bus 74 home, which is conveniently located just outside the MTC and goes straight up Fuxing N Rd to where I live. About a 20 min ride home. And about 1/10 the cost of a taxi.

Today I tried looking for a cellphone, after I realized that the one Lee Chen left behind isn't working. I went to FarEasTone on BaDe Rd, Sec 3 and talked to one of the 2 women working there. She offered me a Nokia phone for NT$3990 and a SIM card for $600. I wasn't ready to shell out that much money for a crappy looking phone. I was hoping to get a 6 month contract with a free phone, but they weren't offering. (At Orientation, they were offering youth discount cards [luckily with them, I still count as a youth since I'm under 30] - which supposedly get you a free phone to use for 15 days. Maybe I'll look into that. Oh and for anyone considering ShiDa, you'd also get the new student fee waived if you presented the card - so it'd be worth seeking it out before Registration if you have the time.)

Post cell phone hunt, I walked up north and stopped at AsiaWorld - where IKEA is located. There were tons of people shopping, but I didn't see anyone testing out the dining tables with a picnic dinner like Peggy has seen in China. In the mall, I checked out the basement food level, but there wasn't anything worth purchasing - mall food is overpriced, considering the wealth of cheaper food stands all over the city. So I headed back to my local night market on Liaoning St and got a Chinese Hamburger (NT$35). This is basically a freshly made folded mantou filled with meat, pickled veggies, crushed peanuts and cilantro. It was delicious! I also got some freshly rolled mochi products just a few booths down (NT$10-15 each). The peanut kind was my favorite.








Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Photo Collages

World Travel collage

Photos of people (and animals) I met during my world travel from Oct 2006 - May 2007 in
France, India, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Taiwan, Belgium, and the Netherlands.

US Travel Collage


Photos of my US travel through California, Washington, Texax, Connecticut, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, and Minnesota.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

Wo yao wan fei pan

Peggy just taught me the title - I want to play frisbee!
[Post edit: with tones, it's wo(3) yao (4) wan(2) fei (1) pan (2)]

But before I could play, I had to pass the time away. I walked down the road in search of my dad's favorite somewhat-nearby dou jiang place. I had looked before, but knowing the pin-yin name of a restaurant isn't really helpful (yong he dou jiang). My mom sent me the Chinese name (and slightly improved directions) and I was able to spot it. Because of the heat, I ended up with a cold tian dou jiang and a tasty bing and then a fan tuan to go. It took about 25 minutes to walk there, which is the time it takes to walk from the Nanjing Dong Lu MRT to the Daan station. There are closer dou jiang places, but this one is supposed to be superior. Since I haven't had the neighborhood one, I can't give a comparison, but I'll tell ya it sure hit the spot! I had the fan tuan for lunch and it was the best fan tuan I've ever had!

Afterwards, I walked down the road to Taipei 101, which I had visited before with Tuyet in March. She had gone up top (the tallest building in the world) and gave me a report on her return. It was still early in the morning, so they hadn't opened yet. I took a left and noticed a parade and drumming in the distance. In front of the Taipei Discovery Center, there were huge crowds of people carrying baskets of food and playing drums and walking into the building. Some were carrying signs (which I couldn't understand) and nearly everyone had a shirt that said "Hakka Speaking".

Inside there was clearly offering tables and a stage set up for something as well as an orchestra playing in the back. Everything was in a foreign language so I stepped out to continue on. I went to Eslite mall which also wasn't open yet, so I turned back. I had the choice of going straight towards Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, another place Tuyet and I had visited in March (and that I had really enjoyed - lots of different exhibition rooms filled with art and history), or back to the Taipei DC, which I hadn't seen before. At this point it felt like I was in a live PC game - a weird combination of King's Quest, Myst and Mario Brothers - where you have the option of exploring different alleys and buildings and interacting with people - and hope you are making the right choice to get a big pay off.

I went back to the Taipei DC and felt like it was the right choice right about when I saw this enormous pig cut down it's underside laying flat on a cart being rolled across the street. It was huge, disgusting, and completely eye grabbing. I followed it in where they put it next to the major offering table and flipped it over. I could see a little tuft of black hair on top, and its mouth held on to an apple. How quaint.


Flipping of the pig Illustration that never was for The 3 Little Pigs

I ended up exploring the Discovery Center and it was well worth it (free). Some of the exhibits had English, and there was a lot of information on the history of Taiwan from the Qing Dynasty, to Japanese rule, to modern day life. They even have a neat-o theatre with a 360 view wall and rotating base - the 10:30 am show was on the Formation of Taipei, starting with the geologic events that created the island. The special exhibit on the 2nd floor was about Education in Taipei. I find museums around the world so interesting - in the U.S. it's often times hands off with No Touch signs. Here, you could touch a piece of one of the old gates that used to wall the city and there was a pile of rollerskates on the floor that kids would try on and roll all over the room - this to be an example of how exercise is a part of education.


Replica of Beimen (North Gate) - the real one was made of bricks - this one is made up of 2000 pineapple cakes!

I'm getting tired, so here's the sped up version:
  • went to the Eslite bookstore around the corner and got sucked into reading the Taiwan Living Guide and a really delicious looking magazine called Taiwanese Cuisine
  • went to the fields near Ding Xi station to play ultimate with the Taipei team
    • accidentally joined the Taichung team and was overwhelmed by the number of Chinese on the team - where were all the expats?
    • got pointed to the Wai-guo ren (foreigner) team warming up on another field - ahh, there's all the whiteys
    • played a scrimmage with the Taipei team against a combo of the Taichung team and another - about 30 of them and 10 of us
  • met one of the ulti player's (Tom's) student (Stanley) and his gf (Christina) and joined up with Jon and Rebecca (ulti players) for dinner at a Korean restaurant. Unlike in America where we us an approximation of the Korean names, everything had it's own chinese name. Bi Bim Bop is called something that roughly translates to "hot stone [something something - boy I have a terrible memory]". Tom also shared some of his mua-chi (mochi) and another mysterious item that I didn't try - but looked like jelly wrapped around a prune (mei-zu???)
  • explored the basement of the Breeze Center - food galore - gosh I wish someone would pay me to eat here. I might just need to get a job so I can start splurging. I've been limiting myself to $1.50 or less meals.

Chinese version of Of Mice and Men

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Life with PoPo

Day 4 and PoPo has just started talking a little less to me. Most times she can talk continuously until I say I'm tired and want to rest. It's good for me to practice my listening skills, but it really does tire me out after too long, or from topics where I have no vocabulary. Sometimes not long after I start my rest, she comes in and starts talking again. This actually works better if I'm lying down - somehow the effort of sitting up straight and doing mental translations is too much of a multitask.

I've enjoyed listening to her tell me about family - both from the past and current. There are certain topics that come up over and over, and others that are unique. Most of the conversation is one way, with some slight interruptions from me saying I don't understand (wo ting bu dong) or to ask for clarification (xx shi shen me?). Occasionally she will stop herself and ask if I understand. Other times she seems happy to have someone to talk to and will continue even though I clearly have no idea.

She sometimes gets frustrated with me for not knowing what she's talking about, but for the most part exhibits incredible patience and will describe things another way until I do understand. She knows the words get stuck in my head and one time she told me to just say it in English. It seemed strange for me to spout out my native language for a good 20 seconds knowing she couldn't understand - but she seemed to realize it would give me some relief to just get it out of me in one go.

One thing I don't understand is her adamancy in staying at home at once in opposition to us going out tonight. Yesterday, I thought we were going to go out together for her to show me a place to get dau jiang (breakfast soy milk) nearby -- and then before I knew it she was saying that she was full and didn't want to eat it. (The dau jiang topic also provides confusion for me since she talks about how good it is and where I can get it, but then says I shouldn't have it because I'll get fat.) I had ended up going out around the corner to pick up some freshly made bao-zi and brought them back. She thoroughly enjoyed one I gave her and today requested that I get more for her. I asked that she join me (truly because I thought a short walk outside would be good for her, but also because the people treated me like I was an incomprehensible alien and she would do a better job of ordering exactly the kind she wanted and I could learn by example), but she insisted on NOT going out. I think she said something about not wanting to talk to the neighbors about her children being in America and then them asking for money to buy houses**. So I ventured out on my own, but being Saturday, just about all of the normal lunch shops were closed (sadly).

Fast forward to 4 pm and she had clearly decided to go out with me. I couldn't be sure for exactly what, but I jumped on the opportunity and grabbed my purse. I thought at first we were going to buy fresh vegetables, but then I realized she wanted to go to a restaurant to buy some cooked food. Anyways, again, it being Saturday, the place was closed. So we walked around some, stopping in a small pharmacy that she insisted used to be a grocery store. At each shelf, she pointed out what they used to sell there. A good memory I think. We continued on and on, with her noting how much had changed. I think she even said it had been 3 years since she'd walked on one section of the street. We then decided to go to the Liaoning St Night Market.



At the first stall, PoPo spotted something that she wanted and could eat. There's a lot of things that she would enjoy, but there are only so many things that she can have given that so many of her teeth have fallen out and the rest are somewhat loose. So she sticks to soft things and soups. I'm not sure what she even bought, but as usual, it was cheap. We continued down the street, stopping in a hardware/knick-knack type store (where she spoke Taiwanese to the shopfolk and ended up with a heavy can of liquid, paintbrush, and a prayer dish). She marvelled at more shops of food, stopping to examine some or even buy some. Then after talking to one shopwoman, we turned around and headed for Da Lu Hua to get some laundry detergent. But every few steps, she would seem to not know where she was going and ask a nearby woman (Xiao Jie) where it was. We ended up following someone with a cart on her way there.

Holy Moly! Da Lu Hua is a HUGE underground store. I'm not sure I would have ever discovered it on my own. It's amazing how much exists underground here (yesterday I happened across the Underground Shopping Mall on Zhongxiao E Rd). This was a Bed, Bath and Beyond combined with Safeway and Circuit City - a sort of super Fred Meyer - but it being underground made it even more impressive. We got some detergent and toilet paper (which wasn't really toilet paper but looks like large travel Kleenex - PoPo didn't want the toilet paper roll because we don't have a roll dispenser) and stopped ourselves from buying more since we didn't have any bags and too many heavy items (I forgot to mention the bag of free dirt we had picked up along the way).

[post edit: Da Lu Hua in English is RT Mart, which is apparently a hypermarket - much like Walmart, but I've never seen a Walmart with its own bakery and fresh produce section. This seemed like a Walmart+]

[post edit2: The real name of "Da Lu Hua" is in a later post.]

**Note: Anything I write that someone has said should not be taken as truth, but only as my interpretation of their Chinese, which is often times wrong. These early posts are bound to be filled with mistakes and naivety as I accustom myself to this new land and language.


Yes that mango is as big as my hand and I'm looking forward to devouring it!

Helpful Taiwan Links

First Steps into Taiwan
Getting by in Taipei
Learning Chinese
  • zhongwen.com = Chinese-English-pinyin resource
  • mandarintools.com = Chinese flashcard program, online and download versions
  • sinosplice.com = tone drills are excellent
  • quizlet.com = flash cards (not chinese specific)
  • soziety.com = skype based language learning program with flash card component
  • chinesepod.com = podcasts for all levels - great for listening skills
  • also see tealit and other forums (above) for finding language exchange partners
  • tone combinations = audio explanations of tone combinations (thanks Matt and Peggy)
  • tones explained = comparison to English for understanding tones (thanks Matt and Peggy)
  • chinese dictionaries = french, spanish, english, chinese, etc (thanks Baba)
  • Mouse Chinese Input = write a word online to get the definition/pinyin (thanks Baba)
Keeping Busy in Taipei

Have anything to add? Let me know. Thanks to Matt, Peggy and Rebecca for suggestions so far.